Whenever I think of the month of March, my thoughts immediately turn to Denver March Pow Wow. My family began taking me to this yearly Native American gathering around the time that I was just learning to walk. This particular pow wow is centered on competitive contest dancing, which means it is a great event for both Native and non-Native folks to attend. Our family is part Hopi Indian, so this gathering has always served as a way to stay connected to our tribal roots. As I grew up, Denver March Pow Wow became my own personal annual tradition. I have only missed it once in the last 15 years. Whenever I think of March, I think of pow wow. And like most Natives, whenever I think of pow wow I immediately think about frybread.
Although different kinds of frybread can be found all over the world, it is most well known as being the staple food of America’s many different tribal nations. “Indian fry bread” (or simply “frybread” as it is known to Natives) is exactly what it sounds like. It is made by taking flat dough and frying it in oil. The way that it is made and served varies by regions and tribes, although inter-tribal gatherings such as pow wows have created some consistencies over time. Frybread has also become very popular with Non-Natives thanks to state fairs, rodeos and other community events.
Frybread is unique in the fact that it can be served as an entrée, a desert or all by itself as a snack or as a compliment to another dish. One of the most popular ways it is served is as an “Indian taco”. Indians tacos are generally served open-faced with a flat piece of frybread serving as the base. On top there is a combination of fillings generally starting with a protein. The most popular choices are pinto beans, black beans, ground beef, bison and chicken. On top of that, the taco is piled high with lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, salsa and sometimes sour cream.
As a desert, frybread is served in many different ways. My favorite way is taking a fresh piece right out of the hot oil and coating it with a generous dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar. Another popular way to serve it is with fruit compote on top as you might typically see with pancakes. The most popular fruit toppings are apple, cherry and blueberry. And of course, the most simple and classic way of enjoying frybread as a desert is eating a plain warm piece with honey. It is similar to eating sopapillas with honey, although the taste and texture are quite different. Sopapillas are generally known for being "puffy", while frybread tends to be much denser.
Frybread is more than just an amazing treat to those who prepare and eat it. It is also a huge symbol of Native American pride. Similar to other religious and spiritual traditions, American Indians believe that sharing dry bread is a way to come together in unity with other tribes and all people. It brings family members of all generations together, from the elders down to those who have just started to eat solid food. It is a time for sharing among friends, and making new friends too. I cannot count the number of times I met a new friend while standing in the enormously long “frybread line”.
The frybread line is something pow wow legends are made of. At most large pow wows, the frybread stand traditional opens around 11:00am, right after Grand Entry. During Grand Entry all dancers, elected royalty (princesses and warriors) and other community representatives dance into the grand arena while the drummers beat a sacred prayer. This is usually followed by a song to honor veterans, a presentation of colors and singing of the National Anthem or a recitation of the Pledge of Allegiance. After that is usually some sort of special prayer dance--and then it is one mad chaotic dash by everyone to the frybread line. If you aren’t already in line just before Grand Entry ends (which is something many elders generally frown upon), you can expect to be waiting anywhere from twenty minutes to an hour. For those who only get this incredible treat once in a great while, the time spent in line is absolutely worth it!
While visiting with family at Denver March Pow Wow in 2009, we received some very exciting news. We had arrived late due to another family obligation and were saddened that we wouldn’t have enough time to stand in line for frybread. We were informed that there was a new Native American restaurant in Denver called Tocabe (which means “blue” Osage). They opened in January 2009 and are located in the trendy Highlands neighborhood near 44th and Tennyson. We couldn’t believe it! We could actually go to a restaurant and order an Indian taco just as easily as ordering a cheeseburger. And best of all—no waiting in line!
Tocabe does a great job of serving up tradition while being incredibly innovative at the same time. When you first walk in the door, the restaurant design makes you feel as though you have stepped into a post-modern Chipotle. However, on any given day you will find tables full of Native families or groups of elders interspersed amongst Highlands hipsters. Besides the option of having frybread any way you like it, the menu features non-traditional items as well. This includes Medicine Wheel Nachos (an option for customers who do not eat gluten), the highly addictive cinnamon and sugar coated Frybread Nuggets, and of course beer--which is both traditional and non-traditional depending on who you ask.
At a whopping 700 calories a serving (and that’s before any kind of protein, sugar or topping!) and deep fried, frybread is unfortunately not one of the healthiest foods in the world. However, it stands for so much to America’s Native people. Whether they have lived on a reservation their entire life or only visit pow wow once a year, it is the fellowship of the bread that brings Native American brothers and sisters together. This tradition and expression of pride is so ingrained that Tocabe sells t-shirts that read, “My heroes have always cooked frybread.” (a clever play on the cliché, “My heroes have always been cowboys.”). In the non-Native world, it is one of the last persevering symbols of a people that have lost so much over the decades. When it comes to Native American visibility, frybread is right up there with Indian casinos, dreamcatchers and the American Indian stereotypes of headdresses and totem poles. The calories may be heavy, but they certainly carry a lot of weight.